#4 Q: What's the difference between "break in", "uncorking", and "HRC Kit"? Please remember and USE these terms. It will help us help you on the group and anywhere else that uses pig latin.

#6 Q: What horsepower can I expect? (stock, uncorked, HRC) Because of the fact that all dynos read different, I'll give you some rough figures. They'd be 40,50 (27% inc.), and 60hp (15% inc.) in that order. These are from Honda, taken at the CS, not rear wheel. Subtract 10 from each for what you are getting to the ground. The stock XR is kinda boring, but the uncorking turns it into a rip- snorting beast that will keep you in debt buying rear tires. The HRC kit will put you into debt trying to keep up. You also have to remember this is a 650cc thumper, and that the torque is enough to let the bike double as a farm implement.

#7 Q: What is the stock gearing? It appears that NA and ED version bikes come with 14/48 gearing. Australian (and South African?) bikes have been reported to come with 15/41. Thanks to Alec and Stuart for confirming the AU gearing.

#8 Q: How fast can it go? Best I can describe it is in the famous words of Johnny Campbell..... "Too fast, too quick!" You get a good solid pull from 0 to 98mph, gps proven. The HRC kit and other mods enable taller gearing and higher speeds. More than enough to make bumble bees as lethal as 30/30 slugs.

#9 Q: What gearing do people run for trail or dual-sport? I still run the 14/48, learning to live with it here in the tight Northeastern woods. Some have dropped to a 13 tooth front to enable more use of 2nd and 3rd gear in the woods, while a 15 front makes highway less "buzzy". I won't ask how fast these guys drive, as the bike is very comfortable at a steady 65mph, with plenty of nut left for passing. Gearing is a preference and riding type issue.

#10 Q: What is the torque value for some of the major components? First a big warning. A lot of bolts are broken off by misguided people with a $5 torque wrench in their hands. The ANSI spec for torque wrenches allows them to become quite inaccurate at the bottom of the scale, and you can bet the made in Taiwan models aren't even up to spec anyway. You get what you pay for. So, if you use a max. 100 ft-lb unit to tighten a tiny bolt to 9 ft-lb, you are taking a gamble. Secondly, Honda manuals used to give a torque range for bolts (e.g. 6mm dia. bolt typically was 6 to 9 ft-lb) but now they just give the upper value of the range. And thirdly, the torque values are typically for dry (no oil or grease on threads) hardware, but some things like oil filter bolts (the long one, in the front, you've been warned) and oil drain bolts will typically be oily. Other bolts may be greased just to prevent rust and corrosion. (fenders, sidecovers, shrouds) But when there is a lubricant on the threads, less of your tightening force goes into overcoming friction, and so more force is available to stretch the bolt. Put all three of those together, and you have a person who ends up breaking off a bolt while thinking that they were doing everything OK!

Here are some torque values from the manual. If you need more values, you are advised (again!) to invest in a manual!

#11 Q: What can I do with the stock exhaust? That depends on where you are. It seems that the ED (Euro spec) bikes come with the HRC competition exhaust tip, either installed, or in a package with the bike. These have about a 1.5" opening and very little in terms of internal baffling, other than the stainless steel mesh for spark arrestor function. The NA bikes have an exhaust tip with a tiny 3/4" exit and 2" baffles that line up with plates welded in the pipe so that they can pass the 82dB federal noise regulation. If you have one of these, your choice is to either modify the one you have, or buy the HRC tip (part number 18317-MBN-640, approx $110 USD).

For a slight increase in flow (and sound level) a machinist can use a lathe to cut away the weld holding the spacer which in turn holds the 3/4" pipe. This leaves the 1 3/8" pipe as an exit, which is already bigger than the area for flow around the internal 2" baffles.

Taking things to the next level involves drilling out the whole 1 3/8" section with a 2" holesaw. This is what you will typically see recommended on most of the sites that describe the uncorking process. You can also remove the tip assy. and cut the last baffle off from it, leaving the spark arrestor intact. You get tremendous gains by doing this, a true "thumper" sound, without breaking the windows of houses and having little kids tremble in fear as you ride by.

Finally, if you are after full flow HRC-like closed course mode, you will need to add a 1 1/4" hole in the remaining 2" baffle and use four small screws to fit a 2" disc of stainless mesh (similar to what Honda uses) over this new hole to retain spark arrestor function. This may be too loud for most circumstances, but a 2" disc of stainless steel can be exchanged with the mesh to revert back to the previous step.

The BRP does not have the restrictive welds between the header flanges and the head pipes as commonly reported for the older XR400.

#12 Q: What is the stock jetting for Euro/ED, NA, Aus/SA bikes? Stock jetting for the NA bikes are a 125 main, 65s pilot and lean needle. (Note that XR250's come with a main jet bigger than a #125!!!) Most of the rest of the world gets a 175 main and 65s pilot.

#13 Q: How do the Euro/ED bikes differ from NA bikes? It seems that the BRP comes in four Common flavors. North American (NA), European (ED),a a general export version (D, DK, and DM), and Australian(U). Some people in the UK have reported getting grey market import Aussie models. There are several more model designations listed but I have no data to provide descriptions. Basically, they are all the same bike. Differences are pretty much limited to electrics, lighting, and jetting. Us guys and gals in NA get the short end of the stick with the EPA "corking". Here's a table to clear things up.

#13B Q: What do I do with the smog pump? To fully tick off the Tree Huggers and disable every Spotted Owl you can, remove it and discard. This things only duty is to feed exhaust gases back into the air intake. That's about as appealing to your bike as you sniffing your own underwear. Just pull it off and block off the tubes with one of a few different methods. You can spend money for a block off kit (Baja Designs, White Brothers), cut the tubes 1/2" from the plate, roll them back and braze, insert screws covered with silicone, or whatever your little heart desires. Big thing is to make sure they don't leak. See also my redundant answer above.

#14 Q: What is the recommended uncorked jetting? Altitude and choice of exhaust tip is going to make a difference here, but ballpark is a 170 to 175 main and a 68S pilot for below 1000'. The richer pilot is a must have to keep things cooler at low speeds. Also, throw in a B53E needle, Honda PN 16012-MBN-641. It comes as a set with a new seat and has a richer grind at the tip, allowing more fuel at the lower throttle ranges. This info comes direct from a Honda service bulletin. (The Wrench 2/00)

Here's a couple variations that pop up. Some run as high as a 180 jet with stronger midrange results than the 175. They are easy to change, so grab a few extras and fiddle. Just remember to change only ONE THING AT A TIME when doing carb adjustments. It makes trouble shooting easier. Also, some have had bad luck with the B53E needle, getting funky throttle results with it. I run the stocker with no problems and have not yet tried the HRC one. I will asap for a comparison here.

#15 Q: What's so special about the "S" in a 68s pilot jet? The 68s has smaller holes than a standard pilot. It will change the flow characteristics and atomization of the fuel. You can run a regular jet in there if you want, but then you won't be on the same playing field as the rest of us, meaning that we can't help you!

#16 Q: How big is the carb? Keihin non-pumper 40mm. Many say replace it with the Edelbrock Quicksilver. Coined as a miracle cure for all that ails the BRP, plus athletes foot. Generally speaking, those who were recent converts from two stroke bikes find that an accelerator pump ("pumper carb") help cure the hesitation when the throttle is opened rapidly at low engine RPMs. The rest of us apply the "Doctor, it hurts when I do this" rule and live with the stocker.

#17 Q: Why doesn't my suspension have grease fittings? I have no idea! My personal opinion is that on a dirtbike they are a waste anyway. You can pump as much super-duper-lithium into your bearings as you want, yet it still will not remove water and dirt. The fresh grease will simply follow the path of least resistance and come out in just one or two spots. Take it apart, clean it and regrease it and you know it is done right.

A word to the wise on greasing. Don't use a lithium base grease. No matter what others tell you, all greases are not waterproof just because they have oil in them. A lithium (plus others) based grease will actually absorb water, even the moisture in the air. It will take on a whitish tint, almost waxy looking, when this happens. Use an aluminum complex grease. It's a bit harder to find than your garden variety wheel bearing grease that all the parts guys sell, but it's worth it. BelRay waterproof is aluminum based.

#18 Q: What are the common suspension mods? The bike is sprung for a 170lb rider. Most of you gorillas will have to buy heavier springs for the forks and the rear shock. Be sure to set the rear shock sag to match your weight with gear. Many change the oil in the forks to a 2.5wt (stock is 5) and crank the clickers in for a plusher ride off road. Of course myself, at 145lbs, need to locate lighter springs!

#18A Q: Which adjuster is what on the shock and forks? For the forks, the one at the bottom is compression, top is rebound. The shock is just the opposite. Here's and easy slogan to remember how the clickers work from some guy named "G" (Glenn B?). "Lefty Loosey, Righty Rigid". Refer to the owners manual for the starting point on these.

#19 Q: What's wrong with my linkage? This a recently found stumbling block that will not rear it's ugly head until you have ridden for a while. It is random in which bikes it attacks, leading me to believe it is a production line error. All years are included. The linkage rides to one side, causing excessive wear to the bellcrank and swingarm tabs. Shims would probably fix it, but I haven't tried it yet.

#20 Q: Can my piggy be jumped? If you're talking whatever obstacle is thrown at you off road, yeah, it can do that. If you plan on trying to race motocross or try to out jump Seth Enslow, you may want to call 911 and have a new set of kidneys waiting on the landing pad.

The big XR is very adept in it's natural environment in stock form. Before you start trashing the poor girl about how you just broke both your ankles trying to make that pass on the triples, show me what Honda brochure told you that the BRP was a motocross bike.

#21 Q: Why is the subframe of my bike bent before I even crash? Proper term is "Honda Side mileage". That's a free service that Honda does to eliminate first crash sorrow! It effects 99.9% of the BRP's of every year. It is easily fixed with the use of an adjustment tool, aka a 5' prybar.

#22 Q: Why do my subframe bolts strip? Actually, they don't "strip". The threaded inserts are squashed into the frame, and sometimes do not get totally "squashed". They work loose and spin in the frame. BEFORE they do this, get a long bolt of high grade (8.8-9.8) that fits. Screw a nut about 3/4" onto this bolt, then add a washer and then thread it fully into the fitting. Screw the nut and washer down to the insert and crank it down while holding the bolt from turning with another wrench. This will clamp the fitting down on the aluminium sub frame thoroughly.

DO NOT USE THREADLOCKER on any bolt that uses an insert, including the shroud bolts up front. Grease and proper torque are the proper way to address these bolts. A lost .65 bolt is cheaper than a 200 dollar tank or subframe.

#23 Q: Why is my headlight so lame as to not even draw moths? In the words of Mr. Owl, "The World, may never know." They all use a 35W bulb, which simply isn't good enough. The plastic lens on the cheese ass sorry excuse for a headlight on the NA bikes makes matters even worse. For off road use, NA bikes can upgrade to an identical sized glass lens with a 55W Halogen H3 bulb and socket (PN 33120-MG3-003, or 33120-MK2-671; the MG3 has a better upper pivot mount). For on-road dual-sport use, something like the Baja-Designs light with a H4 55/60W bulb in a DOT approved lens is a better choice.

ED bikes can apparently use a H4 socket and/or lens from an earlier XL to get a 55/60W hi-lo bulb in use.

#24 Q: Why doesn't my new bike idle down right away? As much as I'd like to again quote Mr. Owl, I won't. Some, maybe most, BRPs have a hanging idle that seems to disappear after time. Part of it may be lean jetting, and the other part, I believe, is badly adjusted cables. After you adjust the free play, pull off the covers and seat and check for a tiny bit of slack on BOTH of the throttle cables. Since I discovered these were taught, even though I had the correct free play at the grip, the problem has not made an appearance. It would explain why the problem "magically" disappears after the bike is used. The cables stretch and eliminate it.

#25 Q: What bolts and nuts do I need to keep an eye on? All of them! Check you bike before or after every ride! But, pay particular attention to the kickstarter bolt (FAQ #32), rh footpeg bolts (FAQ #31), top subframe bolt, and fender bolts. Use a threadlocker on all but the fender bolts. Put a dab of RTV over the heads of those. See the FAQ #22 as to why.

#26 Q: What's this about newbies typically over filling the oil? Why would you spend so much money for a nice bike and not read the manual first? The BRP utilizes a dry-sump engine, meaning that when it is running, the oil is stored in the frame. The dipstick is located in the highest point in the system, so if you check the bike cold,all the oil has seeped back into the cases and you will get a low reading. If you add the 1/2 qt needed to show on the stick, you are now 1/2qt over on a 2qt system.

You MUST run the bike a few minutes before checking the oil! If you don't, you will end up with oil blown out the crank vent and leaking out the airbox (FAQ #27)and risk blowing out the CS seal (FAQ #28).

#26A Q: What do I use for oil filters? Obviously you want to use a good quality filter, but other than that, the pig takes the same as all the other XRs, TRX250X, TRX400EX, and many others. A Fram CH6015 is a start.

#27 Q: Why is there oil dripping from my airbox? See FAQ #26! Oil dripping from your airbox is a sure sign that you have over filled your oil. It is forced out the crankvent and blown into the airbox. Read your manual!

Another big reason for oil drip would be overoiling of the filter. Not only is this messy, but it results in clogged jets (lean) and excessive oil (rich) making it in with the fuel charge. The difference between filter oil and motor oil should be pretty easy to spot. You AREN'T using motor or gear oil in your filter are you?

#27A Q: How do I change or check my oil? Pay attention here Grasshoppah! If you've read this far you'll notice that the previous three FAQs and the following one have some association with oil changing or checking procedures. Do you get the hint? Make sure you do it right!

 To check your oil, the bike MUST be run first. If you don't, you'll end up with 1/2qt too much oil in the system. Do the math and you'll see why this can cause problems. The excess oil has no place to go except through the seals and out the vent. I'm not talking about just starting the bike and running it for a minute, run it for five minutes and maybe even take a quick rip across the neighbors lawn, preferably on a sunday morning at 6, when the magnetic poles have no effect on oil level. Shut off the bike and immediately check the oil level.

 To change the oil, start by letting the bike get good and hot first. Go for a ride, maybe even go back and finish excavating the neighbors lawn. Cold oil will not drain properly. After you've got her smoking hot, steal a lobster pot from moms kitchen for a drain tub and place it under the drain that is located on the frame downtube. Sure, I know there's two, but ignore the other for a minute. Stuff paper towels in the front of the skidplate if you care about cleanliness, (if you don't, then why bother reading my stuff, as you obviously don't love your BRP) and try to shape the towl so it directs any oil that drips towards the plate out and away. Remove the dipstick and then the downtube drain bolt, and then frantically wipe off the hot oil that just squirted up to your armpit.

 After the oil has stopped flowing and is merely a drip, remove the lobsterpot and throw a stack of towels in it's place. (cleanliness!) Now go over and remove the case drain bolt located on the lefthand side under the CS sprocket. You will want to make a chute for the oil from an old beer can or whatever you have on hand. Cut a stip of aluminum 3 or 4 inches long and 1.25 inches wide, then fold it lengthwise into a "V" shape. About 5/8 of an inch from one end, fold a 90 degree bend down, you may have to cut this part a bit to get the bend needed. Shove this high tech tool between the frame and drain to guide the oil out away from the frame and skid. When the oil quits flowing, rock the bike back and forth to get  that extra little bit of lube out.

 To change the filter, you'll need an 8mm socket. Stuff rags below the housing between the skidplate and cases, the more the merrier. It'll make cleanup (cleanliness!!!!!!) much easier. Remove the cover and discard the old filter, preferably over the fence and onto the neghbors lawn. Wipe any debris from the filter cavity, be sure the spring is still hidden in the back, and reinstall the new filter, rubber side out. Carefully reinstall the cover, being absolutely sure that the oring thingy stays in it's grooves. If it has swollen and keeps popping out, throw the oring and cover into the freezer for a bit. This will make it behave long enough to reinstall. (this trick also works on the clutch cover oring and carb top oring)Torque the bolts down in a criss-cross pattern, being careful not to go beyond 8 or 9ft-lbs on them. Be especially careful of the longest bolt, it is known to snap easily.

 Reinstall the drain bolts, making sure that the copper washers are still in place. Don't over torque these, the oiled threads will strip easily. DON"T FORGET TO TIGHTEN THEM!!!!!!!!

 Leaving the bike on the kickstand, (the angle helps the next step) turn the bars to the left. Stuff paper towels (Cleanliness!!!!!!!!!!!) under the front of the tank and a little down the frame sides. Carefully pour in your first quart of oil. You can use a funnel, but I prefer to stay in practice of this technique because I don't have a funnel at trailside if I need to add any. Stop after the first quart, the 2nd won't fit yet and you'll end up making a mess. Throw on the cap and fire up the bike for a minute. No revving or anything here, just let her idle. Shut her down and add the remainder of the oil.

 Here's a rough reference for you, what you end up with may vary a bit. if you've changed the filter, the bike will take two quarts. If you didn't, start with 1.75 quarts. These amounts work for me, but others have stated differently, so I'll just give you this ballpark and you can do what you want.

 Start the pig and take her for a quick spin, finally driving the neighbor into nervous breakdown (insert mental images of groundskeeper from "Caddyshack") and then come back. Shut her down, check the oil level one more time, look for leaks around the filter housing, check the drain bolts, and then go rip!

#28 Q: Why is my countershaft seal leaking? Same as #26 and #27! You've more than likely overfilled your oil. If the oil level gets up to the height of the crankcase vent, then the air pumped by the underside of the piston can't escape, thus resulting in higher pressures against that seal. BUT, another cause is the crank vent getting pinched up underneath your seat, on top of the airbox. Honda also offers an updated CS seal with a thicker lip on it. PN 91205-MBN-672.

#28A Q: Why is my crankshaft seal leaking? Most of the time, the magneto cover on the BRP is VERY airtight. Things get hot and expand, then when you are done riding, the air in the area contracts again, sucking oil through the crankshaft seal and into the bottom of the magneto area. A tablespoon of oil or so there is pretty much normal in my book.

#29 Q: What's this about having "whale snot" in my forks? Because that's what Honda puts in them from the factory. After you have ridden a bit, the forks become harsh and sluggish. Flush them to remove a dark, lumpy, stringy, mess that used to be oil. Don't ask, you don't want to know what they really use. See the next FAQ #30 also.

#30 Q: What about those rusty fork parts? Many BRPs are afflicted with rust on the steel internals of the forks. Check them soon after getting home and get it warranted. If you've got mileage on the bike and find this, you've probably toasted the bushings. See also FAQ #29.

#31 Q: Is my footpeg really going to fall off? If you don't check the bolts often, yes. The RH bolts stretch and loosen, allowing the peg to flex and weaken the bolts, eventually causing them to break. If the peg works, it will also damage the soft aluminum frame. Replace them with a higher grade bolt and use a thread-locker. I'd almost go so far to say use Heli-coils or Thread-serts. See also FAQ #25

#32 Q: What do you mean my kickstarter has kicked the bucket? Remember what I said about checking bolts? This is one of them. Pull it, clean it, threadlock it, and check it often. If you haven't, I can almost guarantee it's loose. See FAQ #25. Some riders have actually lost their kickstart on the trail, never to be seen again because the bolt fell out. An expensive lesson!

#33 Q: What is wrong with my clutch bushing? The '00 to ?? bikes have a clutch bushing that doesn't get enough oil. It's prone to fail on low mileage ( tighter tolerances) bikes if you are setting at a stop light or revving the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in more than what normal riding calls for. The bushing only is used when the clutch is pulled with the bike in gear. Signs that it failed are when you are parallel parked in the rear window of the car in front of you at the light, or the bike is lodged in the neighbors garage wall after you were revving it in gear. If it hasn't happened yet, or you fear it will, inspect it and install Honda PN 22116-MBN-671. The 1st version has two oil holes in the central groove, while the revised part has holes in the groove and the raised wear surfaces. I have no solid data as to if the newer bikes are coming with them.

#34 Q: What is the service interval for a new BRP? A lot of that depends on riding style and personal preference. Obviously a road bike is going to get less wear and tear on the oil than an off road bike.

The NA service manual says 100 miles(150km) for first oil change, 600mi(1000km) for every thereafter. I think I initially did mine at 20 and 100 miles, now I change every 200 to 300, depending on what the oil looks like and how long my next ride is going to be. I ride strictly off road and firmly believe that oil is cheaper than parts.

#36 Q: Are the cheaper non-Honda manuals of good value? This thing is more important than the instructions on your Sea Monkeys when you were a kid. Don't skimp here!

#37 Q: Where is the master link in the chain? Between the beginning and end of the chain! Actually, Honda and Mr. Ogilvie recommend against using a master link on the BRP. They call for a staked link, which is what comes stock. I have run masterlinks without any issues, other than you have to periodically replace the clip as it wears on the chain blocks. You do know the correct way to install the clip, right?

#40 Q: Can I use synthetic oil in my piggy? Why not? There's a lot of differing opinions and myths out there about oil. Just avoid oils that have the words "Energy Conserving" in the little circular API rating on the label, just like your owners manual tells you. Some of these have extra slippery additives that can cause problems with a wet plate clutch like your motorcycle has. Other people recommend running conventional oil for the first couple of oil changes just to ensure a faster break in period, and then switching to synthetic oil. I've run Mobil 1 red cap (15w50) for 3 seasons now in the woods. I haven't toasted my clutch, the planets have not altered their orbits, and Elvis is still missing. The key here is to keep the oil changed and clean.

#40A Q: How much oil does my BRP take? The books says 1.65USqt at change, 1.75USqt with filter. I find it to be more like 1.75 at change and just shy of 2 with a filter.

#40B Q: Where is the downtube screen? The downtube screen is located just below the downtube drain bolt. Remove the banjo bolt at the end of the oil supply line, without loosing the compression washers, then remove the large hex fitting. The screen is attached to that. Do it after the break in period, then maybe once a season after that.

The second screen that is mentioned in the book is located in the lowest part of the crankcase. You have to remove the right side cover to inspect it. General consensous is that it's a waste of time. Only time you should find debris there is after you've exploded an engine part, clutch, or tranny.

#40C Q: Is there a neater way to add oil? Here's Dayles' take on it. "Try this. Take a small (1/4" or smaller) stick like implement. It only needs to be about 8"long. Hold said "implement" across the hole in the oil bottle. When the oil starts to come out, make sure the oil touches said "implement." Surface Tension makes the oil "stick" to the, well, stick. OOOOOOOW, science and stuff. Oh, by the way, make sure the other end of the "stick" is pointed in the desired area. It works equally well in the garage and in the field. Science does not discriminate. WOW."

I just stuff rags between the frame and tank, then pour carefully. But I do need to try out his neat idea!

#40D Q: What's the trick to putting in the oil dipstick? I should've put this one in here sooner. It seems to hit most of the newbies, and even some of us guys who have been pig breeders for some time.

Many have found that if you just insert the dipstick in the hole and start screwing (Ohhh behave!), the stick fetches up some some unseen object. Number one thing is, when this happens, DON'T FORCE IT! All you'll accomplish is ending up with a dipstick that looks like a cork screw.

The procedure to get around this is pretty simple. When you insert the stick, lean it so the tip is towards the right side of the bike. Stick her in and screw. That's it! Be sure that the stick is not twisted or bent, and it leaves the cap at a perfect 90 degree angle.

#41 Q: How do I tell if my BRP is boiling? Another easy one. When you shut the bike down, you'll hear what sounds like a kid trying to suck the last bit of chocolate milk from a glass with a straw. I run my coolant in the reservoir at the upper mark. If I'm in a very slow section and I get the bike hot enough for the coolant to come within 1" of the top, I can be sure that it will boil if I shut the bike down.

A word of caution. You are better off to get the bike moving and provide air to the radiators than to shut the bike down if it is that hot. By shutting down, you eliminate the supply of coolant to the head, creating damaging hot spots. Even though the bike is liquid cooled, you still need air!

#42 Q: What's wrong with my thermostat? Here's a flaw that Honda doesn't seem to want to acknowledge. The center guide pin of the thermostat slips from it's holder, causing the valve to stick in an almost open position. Most bikes seem to do it sooner or later. Mine made it 2 seasons before finally failing. replace it with a Napa #115 (or #215 for a 190 deg. 'stat), Carquest #31978, or a matching unit for far less than what Honda wants. Late model GMs and the Suzuki Swift are viable cross reference starters. Be sure to drill a small bleed hole on the rim like the stocker to allow coolant to flow before the valve gets hot, eliminating hot spots in the engine.

Tip: The thermostat can be easily checked, as it uses a rubber o-ring instead of a gasket in the manifold. Just remove the LH shroud to get at it. Fluid can be drained via the 10mm bolt on the water pump.

#43 Q: What does a different radiator cap do? The stock bike comes with a 1.1 cap. Raising the cap to a higher pressure allows the bike to run a bit hotter before it begins boiling. It will also help you high altitude guys even more, as your lower atmospheric pressure aggravates the issue. A KX500 1.8 (Kawi pn 49085-1059) cap will work in this app.

#44 Q:What are my options for coolant? First tip here is to stick with a non-silicate (red or orange tint) coolant.

Just a little sidenote: The BRP is shipped with a green coolant. When swap time comes, don't be fooled. It is a non-silicate coolant, so don't pour just any old green stuff back in. Use the recommended Honda, or a red over the counter non-silicate. Thanks to Jim Cesari for pointing out I needed to clear this up.

Running green non-silicate in your piggy will have two ill effects. First, red and green are not compatible and the additives used to prevent corrosion in the system will cease to work. Green coolant also uses fine silica to "sandblast" any scale buildup in the system. It will erode away soft components and grind down seals.

Some add a "water wetter", such as Red Line, but my vote is still out on that. I can't even get a straight answer as to wether or not you run it with coolant or straight water. There is also a straight glycol (Evans), but that too seems gimmicky to me. It will not boil and does not expand, both of which are very good traits. the drawback there is a 15 degree higher average temperature, according to some thermodynamic calculations done by Rich.

I cannot stand behind either of the coolant options, as I do not have the boiling problems that many have. I'm a firm believer that proper jetting will cure 99.9% of the BRP boiling incidents.

#44A Q: How do I drain my coolant? That's an easy one. The bolt on the water pump that has a 10mm head, a copper sealing washer under it, and is located at the most forward point is the drain. Just remove the radiator cap and pull the bolt. Be prepared, it will squirt farther than that time you pee'd on farmer Goodwins electric fence!

One catch though, the oem skid plate is in the way to do this. John Roberts drilled a 1.5 inch hole in his to allow draining. I believe the ever popular Moose allows access already.

#45 Q: Why is there fuel coming from my vent tubes? To a point, that is normal. The vents allow excess fuel in the bowl to be bled off instead of being forced up through the jets and into the intake charge. You will always see this with the stock, or most others, carb.

If you are leaking fuel on a modest incline or even when the bike is on it's stand, chances are that your float level is too high. Another sign of this is a "burble" or stall of the bike when crossing whoops or landing from a jump. It's easily fixed by following the step by step in your service manual. You HAVE bought one, right?

#46 Q: Will XR600 wheels fit my pig? Yes. Though I have not done it myself, here's an answer from a group member.

The front ('92 on) 600 wheel is almost identical to the 650 & will bolt straight in with no modification, If you look closely the casting is slightly thicker on the 650 hub, that's the only difference. The rear 600 wheel is also able to be used on the 650, the disc & sprocket alignment is identical (must use 650 disc tho' - 220 vs 240mm dia.) You need to change the bearings to ones with 20mm I.D. & use a 20mm I.D. internal spacer tube, also you can't use the 600 screw in seal on the drive side but you can buy a seal of the right O.D. to use instead & tap it in like the 650 setup.

#47 Q: What's this about seized and broken chain adjusters? This is another case of aluminum in contact with steel that results in a festering mess of corrosion when damp. If you don't log a whole lot of miles, it is possible to go a whole season without having to adjust the chain. That is enough time for the corrosion to seize the bolts into the swingarm to the point where they will twist off rather than undo. Several people have already fallen victim to this, requiring a time consuming and possibly expensive repair. So be smart, remove them while you still can and coat them with an anti-seize compound, or even a layer of grease if that is all you have. This tip is handy ANYWHERE that you have bolts of one material being threaded into an object of dissimiliar material. ie: case bolts and the kickstand bolts are both very good places to apply this.

Here's you free brain enlargement therapy for today. The following definition of "Galavanic reaction" will be handy in many ways if you pay attention and apply it to your BRP:

Galvanic corrosion (also called ' dissimilar metal corrosion' or wrongly 'electrolysis') refers to corrosion damage induced when two dissimilar materials are coupled in a corrosive electrolyte. It occurs when two (or more) dissimilar metals (usually steel and aluminum in our case) are brought into electrical contact under water. When a galvanic couple forms, one of the metals in the couple becomes the anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode and corrodes slower than it would alone. Either (or both) metal in the couple may or may not corrode by itself (themselves) in sea water (mud/water/muck, in our app.). When contact with a dissimilar metal is made, however, the self corrosion rates will accelerate or decelerate.

#49 Q: I've crashed and now my forks and triple clamps are twisted! Piece of cake! Usually you can hold the front wheel between your knees and wrench the bars back to where they belong. most of the time, I just find a convenient trailside tree and whack the stuff back into shape. It's not a BRP defect, most bikes do it. Shoulda seen the forks on my XT350!

#50 Q: What's the trick to getting out the wheel bearings? There's a couple tricks to doing this. Easiests (and most expensive!) is to invest in a puller that is designed for this task. It uses a clamshell deal that expands into the inner race and then utilizes a weight (like a dent puller) to jolt things apart. Next method is the redneck way. Uses a punch with good edges to snag the inner race of the bearing opposite you (the bearings have to come out and cannot be pushed through) and drive away, working around to keep things coming squarely. If the bearing goes cockeyed it'll bind and oblongate the hole. On the rear wheel, notice that the hub is slightly cone shaped. You want to drive out the big end bearing first. Doing it in this order allows you more room to shove aside the spacer and get a better bite on the bearing race.